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Hidden in Garbh Choire between Ben Avon and Ben a' Bhuird to the south of Tomintoul are two of the best rock climbs in the Cairngorms.
Mitre Ridge
Mitre Ridge faces north at high altitude. It is a wide, 200m high black wall projecting as a wedge into a outer ridge and culminating in a series of fine towers. It looks a magnificent sight in winter when the Direct Route (Hard Severe) becomes a Grade V winter ascent - one of the finest in the Cairngorms.
Squareface
The other outstanding feature of Garbh Choire is Squareface. Squareface projects outwards halfway between the Sneck and Mitre Ridge. This high black buttress has a hidden west face of dry, rough, clean rock that offers one of the best climbs in the massif. The original route ends by going up the steep top part of the arete to a delicate and spectacular finish on superb rock. |
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